Why would an Islamic empire place a Jewish symbol on the walls of the Holy City?

We delved into the history of the six-pointed star symbol. We discussed how the star has been a common architectural and decorative motif across various cultures—Islamic, Christian, and Jewish—for millennia. Before it became the universally recognized emblem of Zionism and the State of Israel in the modern era, it was a popular apotropaic (protective) sign, often used to ward off evil or simply for geometric balance. In the Ottoman context, it likely held a decorative or even talismanic role, appearing alongside other geometric shapes that held no singular religious meaning.

This starting point immediately sets the stage for Jerusalem’s history: nothing here is simple, and symbols always hold multiple layers of meaning, challenging our modern, binary understanding.

Jaffa Road Crossroads: The City's Growing Pains

Our path led us to Tzahal Square, a chaotic, central crossroads near Jaffa Gate. Here, we paused at a series of historical photo galleries stationed along the square. These images depicted the dramatic development of this very road and neighborhood throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

For centuries, this spot was the absolute frontier. It was the crucial meeting point where the few main roads leading from Jaffa and the north converged just outside the city walls. Observing the evolution of this crossroad—from dusty track to paved artery—allowed us to discuss the major population explosion of the 19th century. As the Jewish community rapidly grew, moving outside the congested Old City walls, this intersection became the economic and transportation hub of the burgeoning New Yishuv (settlement). The photos showed houses slowly replacing fields, demonstrating the unstoppable momentum of Jewish resettlement.

The Thin Line of Division: The British Mandate and the Border

Standing by the majestic, historic building that once housed the City Hall, our discussion shifted to the turbulent period of the British Mandate. This beautiful structure, planned by the renowned architect Clifford Holliday and built with financial backing from Barclays Bank, served as a physical symbol of foreign governance. We also noted the neighboring building that Holliday designed, which served as the Bible Study Institute—highlighting the academic and religious focus that always characterized Jerusalem.

But the site’s most dramatic history came later. Following the 1948 War of Independence, this precise location became the de facto border for 19 long years. The City Hall building and the adjacent Mandelbaum Gate area marked the sharp dividing line between the State of Israel (West Jerusalem) and Jordanian-controlled East Jerusalem. For two decades, a simple, tense line ran between the buildings and the Ottoman walls - a harsh, constant reminder of the city’s division and the failure to fully realize the dream of a unified capital.

A City Thirsty: Water, Siege, and Resilience

We moved around the other side of the building, encountering a curious mix of ancient history and modern art. We paused to observe the intriguing molecular H₂O sculpture and the nearby park exhibit marking the path of the Crusader Aqueduct that once channeled water into the ancient city.

This seemingly peaceful spot gave rise to a solemn discussion: the Arab siege on Jewish Jerusalem in 1948. I described the great distress and lack of water that the Jewish residents faced as supply lines were cut. The aqueduct exhibit served as a stark contrast - for centuries, water had flowed; in 1948, the community faced total cutoff. We viewed powerful photo gallery stations on the wall of the historical building, showing the stark reality of the city under siege and divided, underscoring the high price paid for the city's survival.

Safra Square: Architecture and Memory

Our final destination was Safra Square, the site of the modern City Hall complex. Here, architecture speaks volumes about the city’s self-perception.

Standing before the new municipal building, we discussed its deliberate architectural elements. We noted design features intended to commemorate aspects of Solomon’s Temple, which stood in Jerusalem nearly 3,000 years ago, connecting the modern government center to the city’s most sacred past. Juxtaposed against these elements are others reminiscent of the great Mamluk buildings constructed on the Temple Mount and its surroundings in the 12th century. The City Hall is thus designed as a dialogue of history, acknowledging both the deepest Jewish roots and the influential Islamic periods that shaped the city's built environment.

A Touch of the International

Before concluding, we looked across Jaffa Road at the imposing Central Post Office building. This structure stands out as one of the few major buildings constructed by the British during the Mandate era in the modernistic International Style. We noted the striking material contrast: the lower rows clad in dark basalt stones, offering a solid base, contrasting sharply with the standard, elegant white Jerusalem Stone that covers the majority of the building. This architectural choice serves as a final reminder of the different powers—foreign and local—that have layered their distinct marks upon the city, creating the complex, beautiful, and deeply resonant Jerusalem we walk through today.

Read more articles in the Travelogue